Tuesday 19 June 2012

"I'm your Huckleberry" - Our day at Tombstone.

Statue of Wyatt Earp - Tombstone, Arizona.

Tombstone is a living museum. Preserved in the 1920s after a resurgence of fascination in the Old West, the "Town Too Tough To Die" thrives on the tourist trade, brought about by the public's interest in one of the biggest icons of the West, Wyatt Earp.

Earp, his brothers Virgil and Morgan along with their friend Doc Holliday, engaged in a gunfight with Billy Clanton and Tom and Frank McLaury, at 3pm on October 26, 1881, forever cementing Tombstone in the history books and providing the small southern Arizona town with its meal ticket.

There is something to be said about the kitschy and touristy aspects of Tombstone, but since the mining prospects of the town dried up in the early 20th Century, their claim to fame is the only thing keeping this wonderful little town alive. In that regard, I say, go nuts!



When I say the town is a living museum, I mean just that. There is a difference between Tombstone and Historic Tombstone. 


 Historic Tombstone is blocked off from regular traffic and preserved for the tourist trade.
It looks magnificent!

  

This is the Oriental Saloon. The Earp Brothers ran a Faro game from here back in the early 1880s.


 

Here is the intersection outside the Oriental. This is where Virgil Earp was shot in retaliation for the OK Corral shooting.


And of course the Birdcage Theatre. Apparently one of the most haunted places in America??





Just outside of town, is the Boothill Graveyard. Here is buried many of the legendary figures of Tombstone.




This is one of the markers for the McLaury brothers and Billy Clanton, shot and killed at the OK Corral.


The marker for Marshal Fred White, whose murder by Curly Bill could be said to be the catalyst for the events that led to the incident at the OK Corral.


The grave of Lester Moore.


Arriving at the actual OK Corral site, is where you get a healthy dose of cheese...

 
 


At the site where the gunfight occurred, they have erected a diorama of robotic mannequins which lamely re-enact the events of the day. You could say it sullies the memory of those involved, but then you are ushered in to a tiny outdoor theatre to witness a re-enactment by live actors. Which is actually really well done.

Here are the players - 

 
Morgan (left) and Virgil (right) Earp.


Doc Holliday (the actor playing him was brilliant. I am convinced this role is the 20th (and 21st) Century's Mercutio)

 Wyatt Earp with Hattie Earp (James Earp's daughter - the story goes, she was in love with Tom McLaury...).

Billy Clanton (left) and Tom McLaury (right)

 Frank McLaury (the elder brother and the only experienced gunfighter of the group)
 
Ike Clanton (Billy's older brother and the orchestrator of the the group's involvement in the events leading to the OK Corral. He was even present that day, but being unarmed was not attacked by the Earp party).

What I was expecting from this re-enactment, was a total whitewash of history. I thought it would be a given that the organisers would present the Earps and Holliday as the good guys and the Clanton-McLaury's as the villains. Not so. Not only during this re-enactment but throughout the town, they go to great pains to show the grey areas involved in the incident (in fact, while having dinner at Big Nose Kate's Saloon, a barmaid was talking about how there are still some families in the area who are allied with the Clanton-McLaury's who spit whenever the Earps are mentioned!).

So now, let me present the Gunfight at the OK Corral (or as much of it I could photograph!)








 "You're a daisy if you do"





Wyatt laments the actions of the day.


All told, it was a fantastic day. 

Sure, the town thrives on tourism, but the cheesiness is countered by the respect they have for their heritage. I would recommend this to anyone who loves Westerns, or just history in general.

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